Adding booster products, (AKA serums and facial oils) to your daily skincare routine is an easy way to customize for better results – once you get the hang of it! The trick lies in learning how to identify the purpose of each booster and then applying each product in order of function and rate of absorption.
Huh? Please translate that to plain English
In a nutshell, booster products are designed to be used in a particular order based on molecular weight and rate of absorption. Applied correctly they create a “cocktail” that effortlessly harmonizes with your moisturizers, sunscreen and makeup.
Booster disfunction often manifests as your moisturizer or makeup “pilling up” on the surface of your skin. Out of order, boosters tend to gather and slide and can cause a sticky texture, rather than sinking in completely and leaving the skin smooth – sound familair? Reordering your booster application will help!
Lets break it down
Scenario 1: Serum(s) + Moisturizer
You currently use a daily moisturizer and have added a water based serum, such as hyaluronic acid or vitamin C, to your routine…
If you are using both a hyaluronic acid serum and a vitamin C serum
Do this: After cleansing your skin, apply the serum, allow a minute or two for it to absorb, then apply your moisturizer and or/suncsreen.
If you are using both a hyaluronic acid serum and a vitamin C serum
Do this: After cleansing, apply the C-serum (which has a low pH due to naturally occurring citric acid), then the HA serum (which helps offset set any possible dryness from the C-serum). Allow time for the two serums to absorb, then apply your moisturizer and or/ sunscreen.
Scenario 2: Facial Oil + Moisturizer
Facial oils generally have luxe textures and beautiful aroma and are a joy to use. A bit thicker in texture compared to a serum by design which helps them protect, calm and balance the barrier function of your skin.
You are currently using a daily moisturizer and have added in a facial oil…
Do this: After cleansing, put a few drops of facial oil on your fingertips, press the oil onto your skin and lightly massage it into your face and neck. Once the oil has absorbed, apply your moisturizer and/or sunscreen.
Scenario 3: Serum + Facial Oil + Moisturizer
You currently use a daily moisturizer and a serum (or two) but still feel a little dry so have added a facial oil to your booster routine.
Do this: After cleansing, apply your water or aloe based serums (check the ingredient list on the label to see what’s what) and allow a few minutes for them to absorb. Then put a few drops of facial oil on your fingertips, press the oil onto your skin and lightly massage it into your face and neck. Once the oil has absorbed, apply your moisturizer and/or sunscreen.
Should boosters be applied AM or PM?
Well there’s no easy answer to that. It all depends on the function of the serum and your skin goals.
- In general – vitamin C serums should be used in the AM if at possible. The antioxidant superpowers of vitamin C help create a shield against pollutants and other environmental aggressors plus, vitamin C also has a bit of natural UV protection so it helps guard your skin during daylight hours.
- Hyaluronic acid serums can be used at will. They follow C-serums and go before any subsequently applied product such as a moisturizer.
- Peptide or EGF serums, which tighten and firm the skin, can be used AM or PM (or both). As they are usually more of a gel like vs watery texture, they go on after C-serum and/or an HA serum, but before moisturizer an/or sunscreen.
- Aloe-based serums should be applied after a hyaluronic acid serum and before moisturizers
- Serums with compatible bases (e.g., water-based or lipid-based) can be mixed in a 1:1.
Note: Lipid “or fat-based” forms of vitamin C, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (again, read your ingredient list), should not be combined with an EGF serum. Split them into AM and PM applications.